A Guide to Eating and Drinking in Ala Moana
It’s not just a giant mall. Filled with every cuisine from Moorish to Northern Chinese, the neighborhood of Ala Moana has everything you need to live, and more.
View of Diamond Head from Magic Island
In this series, I share the places I eat, drink, and shop for ingredients throughout the entire island of Oʻahu. The businesses listed in these guides are here because they are places I would return to and I believe are worth recommending. I do not rate or review them, but I do include what I go there for. For example, “Flatbread and box of pastries at Breadshop in Kaimukī.” There are definitely places in each neighborhood that I have not been to (it would probably take a lifetime to eat at every restaurant on Oʻahu), but I did get pretty damn close. I do not include fast food restaurants, corporate chains and nationwide supermarkets.
That first month was pure bliss. Morning swims in the ocean, espressos and ice cream at Stage Cafe, Warriors playoff games at The Mixx (first half) and Mai Tai Bar (second half). We had finally moved into our new apartment after spending the first two weeks on island in Hawai’i Kai. Life was fresh and the possibilities looking down from the 46th floor of the Moana Pacific appeared endless. Even then, wandering about in an unadulterated trance of love, something told me that my dream life would not last forever. I moved out in the summer of 2019 and the Ala Moana neighborhood hasn’t felt the same since.
Birria Tacos at Margaritas
The Ala Moana neighborhood begins at Ala Moana Beach and is bordered by Kamakee Street (Ewa side), Kalakaua Avenue (Diamond Head side) and Beretania Street (Mauka Side). According to Hawaii News Now, the original Hawaiian place name for this area is Kālia. Rich in fishponds, Kālia was where the fishers lived. In the early 1900s developers filled swampland in with sand to create Ala Moana Beach Park. When plans to build the largest shopping mall in the U.S. were announced, Hawaiian families were relocated so construction could begin. Ala Moana Center opened in 1959. It’s now known as the largest outdoor mall in the world.
Tofu Salad at Ruscello
Finding somewhere to eat isn’t difficult. It only took us a couple weeks after we moved in to slip into a routine. Side Street Inn for dinner every Friday, Ruscello for lunch every Wednesday, Amuse Wine Bar for Pau Hana Wednesday night. Keʻeaumoku was known as Korea-moku back then. The abandoned, gargantuan eyesore that sits on the corner of Kapiʻolani and Keʻeaumoku was a sleek, two story Walgreens back then with everything from Hawaiʻi souvenirs to Dole Whip to a walk-in refrigerator that customers could enter for beer. There were even places to sit and eat, with free WIFI. I cooked dinner at home about five days a week back then, zapping leftovers for lunch. In all honesty, I probably sample a greater variety of restaurants from Ala Moana now that I’m not living there.
Bone-in kalbi at Side Street Inn Ala Moana
The Story of Side Street Inn
“You’re going to order all that food?” a giggling, older couple several bar stools down asked my partner and me during our first dinner at Side Street Inn.
Baffled, we reviewed our order: only two dishes and one side.
When the bartender (Love you Roy!)presented a platter of five pork chops, a stack of kalbi ribs fit for a family, and a mound of fried rice bigger than my head, we responded to the couple, “Would you like some pork chops?”
We all laughed, and then these regulars of 25 years became our first friends on Oʻahu. We shared food and stories at the same corner of the bar every Friday night for two years.
The community spirit of Side Street Inn originated with late chef-owner Colin Nishida, who inspired his successor chef Matt Toya to launch his career. The bar’s initial customers comprised friends and local chefs. Now its tourists, locals, friends and chefs from all over. The restaurant helped pioneer local cuisine, Toya said. Sticky, sweet ribs, yakisoba with familiar fish-cake and roast-pork flavors and creamy macaroni salad echo family beach barbecues.
The bar’s twin locations attract icons from Anthony Bourdain to former President Barak Obama. Eight consecutive years of HONOLULU Magazine awards reflect its regional resonance.
Patrons cheer at Volleyball and Basketball games together, exchange holiday gifts, and giggle at newbies before adopting them into the family. In this way, it’s a lot like “Cheers.”
Man, I miss those days…
Chocolate Banana Cream Pie and Coffee from Stage Cafe
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Fallen victim to gentrification, the restaurants of Korea-moku are now dispersed throughout town. Asahi Grill, my favorite spot for Oxtail Soup, is now in Kaimukī. Sorabol moved across the street into the Pagoda Hotel. Ireh Restaurant moved into the first floor of Azure on Ke‘eaumoku and Makaloa streets –the sterile new condominium building that prompted developers to rename the neighborhood “Midtown.” (I donʻt think that place name has quite caught on yet.)
Million 2, On Dong, Eastern Paradise
Pint + Jigger at The Ala Moana Hotel
The most exciting addition to the neighborhood for me is Pint + Jigger, located at the Ala Moana Hotel where a line forms every day upstairs at four oʻclock for happy hour at The Signature. Owner Dave Newman puts his bartenders through rigorous testing before they are allowed to step foot behind the bar, essentially turning them into walking booze encyclopedias like him. Another classy spot for cocktails, that opened last year, is Eleven at Foodland Farms. Their menu acts as a primer to classic cocktails helping the guest select a drink that is right for them amongst an otherwise intimidating wall of spirits (although not as intimidating at Pint + Jigger’s).
Magic Island
Although I love my new neighborhood (Mōʻiliʻili), I miss my time living in Ala Moana. Walking down to the Lantern Floating Ceremony where we pushed tiny, paper lanterns covered in the names of the loved ones we’ve lost out into the sea. Having my dentist, hairdresser and therapist all literally across the street. Working remotely next door at Stage Cafe. Walking for groceries to the Kaka’ako Farmers Market on Saturday, Neal Blaisdell Farmers Market on Wednesday and Foodland Farms at Ala Moana Center during the rest of the week. Full moon yoga at Magic Island. Even our little yellow dive bar on the corner with its glittery red counter and weekly dart league matches is now gone. This neighborhood is very sentimental to me, after all its where I made my first home in Hawaiʻi.
2018 Lantern Floating Ceremony
There are hundreds of good hole-in-the-walls here, especially for Chinese and Korean cuisine. Over the past six years, I’ve tried to hit as many as humanly possible. Below are the ones I believe are worth returning to. If you are unfamiliar with some of the cuisines I recommend on this list just order the house specialties. These are often the dishes that represent both the restaurant and the region of the country the owners are from best.
Gamjatang Jeongol (pork neck bone with potatoes soup) from Million 2
Navigating Ala Moana: The 3, 13 and 9 bus all run down Kapiolani through Ala Moana. Or you can take the number 1 bus on King St.
Weather in Ala Moana: Usually sunny and nice! Similar to Waikīkī. Not very rainy.
My perfect day in Ala Moana:
7:30 am-9:30 am - Take a swim and read a book at Ala Moana Beach
10:00 am-11:00 am - Breakfast at Farm House Cafe
11:15 am-12:45 pm - Coffee at Stage Cafe, take a stroll through Inspiration
1 pm-2 pm - Lunch at Ireh Restaurant
2:15 pm-5:15 pm - Cruise Ala Moana Center, peruse Barnes and Noble, stop for a scoop of gelato at Illy Cafe.
5:30-6:30 pm - Pau Hana at Pint and Jigger
6:45 pm-7:45 pm - Dinner at Million 2
8:00 pm-9:30 pm - Wine and dessert at Amuse Wine Bar
Farmhouse Cafe
Food and beverage recommendations in Ala Moana:
Ireh Restaurant: Vegetable Bibimbap
Million 2: Pork neck and potato kimchee soup and Zha Jiang Mian
Ichiriki: Hot pot and beers. Bring a group.
SingMaTei: Laksa (in the mall)
Nanzan Giro Giro: Six course tasting menu
Pint + Jigger: Prime Thyme (Negroni version) with Bone Marrow and Mushrooms
Frog House: Black Goat Stew Pot, Galbi Jjim, Korean Sausage
Sxy Sechezuan: Sichuan dry pots, Mapu Tofu, pork dumplings and Dan-Dan-Mian.
Liliha Bakery: Mahi Mahi with brown rice, salad, corn and butter roll at (on the third floor of Macy’s at Ala Moana Mall)
Mariposa: Afternoon tea (on the second floor of Neiman Marcus at Ala Moana Mall)
Chengdu Taste: Wontons in red chili sauce, toothpick lamb with cumin, Cuiyun boiled fish with pickled cabbage and chili, mung bean drink
Ruscello: Salmon, Burger or any of their salads. Try to score a seat on the lanai. (on the second floor of Nordstrom at Ala Moana Mall)
Eleven: Toast (of any kind) and cocktails at (Side door of Foodland Farms at Ala Moana Mall)
Eastern Paradise: Opened 45 years ago by the current owner’s father. A favorite among local chefs. Order the Pot Stickers, Sweet and Sour Pork and Zha Jiang Mian.
Farmhouse Café: Chef Zouhair Zairi from Morocco makes killer Potato Muille Fuille, Beignets with strawberry-hibiscus jam and daily brunch specials.
Palama Market: Grab pre-made plates of jun, Korean pancakes and gim bap for an affordable meal on the go.
Chez Kenzo: Local-style pupu and beer joint
Island Vintage Coffee: Coffee drinks and acai bowls
Sunrise Shack: Acai bowls and bullet coffee (at Ala Moana Mall)
Side Street inn: Pork chops, Kalbi ribs, fried rice and salad. Try to score seats at the bar with at least three friends. Portions are humongous.
Purvee Donuts: Ube granita and Na-Na-Nut Buster
MW: Mochi Crusted Kona Kampachi + Shave Ice and MW Candy Bar
Artizen by MW: Bubu Arare Garlic Chicken Sandwich
Gyu-Kaku: Japanese BBQ. Order all kine beef cuts to grill at your table.
Jade Dynasty: Dim Sum (third floor at Ala Moana Mall)
Stage Café: Coffee and dessert
Amuse Wine Bar: Wine tasting plus Patatas Bravas and Salmon Tataki
Stage Restaurant: BBQ Spiced Kurobuta Pork Chop, any dessert
Yaki Yaki Miwa: Beef tongue, mashed potatoes and pork modernyaki
Dew Drop Inn: Dumplings (try to reserve a table there)
Margarita’s: Coconut horchata, Margaritas and Birria tacos with sides of Spanish rice and beans. (Go during happy hour 4-6pm for $2 off tacos. Closed Sun/Mon)
Papa Kurts: Cheeseburger and crinkle cut fries (Shares a lanai with Margarita’s)
Himalayan Kitchen: Okra, Nepali Dahl, Chana Aloo, Garlic Naan (at the bottom floor of Ala Moana Mall)
Yung Yee Kee: Dim Sum
Wild Orange: Hold the Boba and their old fashioned at (Located inside Hawaiian Brian’s. Must reserve by text message. Don’t forget to bring a nickel)
Olena Café: Hummus wrap and Glow juice
Pho One: Pho with brisket, tendon and tripe
Sushi ii: Lamb chops, foie gras and of course sushi
HiBlend Health Bar: Power House Cleanse juice
Menya le Nood: Menya Tsukemen or Menya Ramen
Pig and The Lady at Neal Blaisdell Farmers Market: Pho or Bahn Mi (Wednesdays 4:30-7pm)
Nygia Market: Japanese groceries and bentos (Bottom floor of Ala Moana Mall, across from Foodland)
Les Banh Mi: Classic Saigon Banh Mi and Roasted Pork Banh Mi
Izakaya Dangi: Chicken wings, chicken karaage, Mizutaki Hot Pot
Asian Mix: Hot & Sour Soup (takeout only)
Yu Chun: Bibim Naeng Myeon and Mul Naeng Myeon (cold black noodles)
Cloud Nine Bakery: Matcha-red bean souffle pancakes
Don Quiote: Groceries and prepared foods. If you canʻt find it at Don Q it doesn’t exist
The Signature: happy hour
Teddy’s Burgers
Golden Pork: Tonkatsu Ramen
On Dong Chinese Restaurant: (Northern Chinese food) Jjamppong (spicy pork and seafood noodle soup with gochugaru), Zha Jiang Mian, potstickers, sweet and sour pork. Comes with banchan of kimchee, pickled daikon and raw white onion with black bean sauce.
J Shop: Japanese specialty groceries
This list is still a work in progress. Check back often for updates!
