Hawaiʻi is a magical chain of islands created by volcanic eruptions and shaped by gods and goddesses.
Legend has it that the Polynesian earth goddess Pele is responsible for creating the islands formed by these volcanic eruptions. She is now said to be living in the crater of Kilauea on Hawaiʻi Island, after traveling from island to island in the same order as the progression of volcanic eruptions.
Although the youngest, Hawaiʻi island is the largest of all the Hawaiian Islands and how it earned its nickname, The Big Island.
Mana, or spiritual essence, is strong here. You can feel and see the island’s aliveness at every turn. The Hawaiians don’t just see land as something that can be bought or sold, they see it as life.
Active volcanos, snow capped mountains, crystal clear water, tropical rainforests, sacred historical temples made of lava rock, and some of the most epic waterfalls on earth make up this island. Climates range from hot to cool, to snowing in some areas. It is the only island in the world where you can find white, black, and green sand beaches.
When driving across the island on highway 2000 there are so many changes in landscape that you feel like you are driving cross country.
One minute you are amongst lush rainforests and the next minute all you see are scattered, tiny, neon green leaves sprouting up through black volcanic lava rock. Amongst the craters and dry desolate empty land you can sometimes feel like you are on another planet. Oh! And look out for wild goats scurrying across the highway!
FOOD
Aloha ‘Aina – meaning to love and care for the land – is engrained in the culture here. Natural farming, humanly raising animals, and sustainable fishing practices are revered and promoted throughout restaurants all over the island.
Hilo
The Locavore Store kicks ass. Read more about it here.
Conscious Café offers fare for both vegans and meat eaters alike. Bowls, tacos, burgers and salads all made of organic produce, grass-fed beef, and local line-caught fish. They also have a kombucha bar offering a wide selection of Big Island kombuchas on tap, and a tiny gift shop curated with local goods.
Hilo Shark’s Coffee is a great place to stop for coffee, an acai bowl, or a sandwich. They have a large covered outdoor patio if you are eating “in.” Also a good place to grab some souvenirs.
The Moon and the Turtle, although closed during my trip, is said to be one of the best restaurants on the island from locals and visitors alike. An always changing menu of locally sourced food and cocktails with a bumping happy hour and great service. Reservations recommended.
The Hawaiian Style Café was also recommended to us. Locals love their enormous portions of classic Hawaiian comfort food. There are locations in Hilo and Waimea.
Waimea
Village Burger is a quick service restaurant in a strip mall offering Parker Ranch pasture-raised grass-fed beef burgers using fresh local goat cheese, fresh baked bread, and produce from neighbor farms.
Big island brewhaus – Besides craft beer you can find a menu loaded full of local, fresh line-caught fish, grass-fed beef and organic produce. Their spent grain from brewing beer and food waste is used to feed local cows and pigs. They are a platinum-level ocean-friendly restaurant and the second restaurant on Hawaiʻi Island to be Blue Zone approved.
Merriman’s – Farm-to-table, high-end dining in a cozy non-pretentious atmosphere. The Mai Tais are amazing here. This was Peter Merrimanʻs – one of the founding fathers of Hawaiʻi Regional Cuisine –first location.
Waimea Butcher Shop – Mom and pop butcher shop specializing in sustainably raised and locally sourced meat and charcuterie. They are a nose-to-tail operation that cuts meat to order and has an extremely high standard in quality.
Waikoloa
Daylight Mind Coffee – Na’auao – Hawaiian for intelligence and wisdom – literally translates to Daylight Mind (Naʻau=mind, Ao=Daylight). This company chose their name because they say it “weaves together a love of scientific exploration with a deep respect for the wisdom and strength of its Hawaiian roots.” Although they use western techniques they draw from Hawaiian culture to keep themselves grounded and stay true to the land. They pour locally grown coffee sourced from several different farms and offer breakfast, lunch and dinner menus with a farm-to-table sensibility.
Farmers markets line the perimeter of the island on a daily basis. They are a great way to learn about Hawaiian culture and sample foods grown locally. Click here to find one near where you are staying. I visited the Hilo farmers market and although it runs daily the Saturday market is the largest all week.
SNORKELING
The Kona side of the island is known for snorkeling. Crystal clear waters and beautiful beaches make access easy and inviting.
Beach 69, named after the mile marker it is located at, is a local favorite for snorkeling at Waialea Bay. The white sandy beach is covered with large shady trees and the reefs are full of beautiful fish.
If you are looking for a snorkeling excursion by boat I recommend Hilo Ocean Adventures. You can arrange a private tour where you will have your own captain and snorkel guide to take you to all the best spots, prepare you snacks and take a video of your entire experience. You may even swim with sea turtles and have a school of dolphins riding along side the boat with you on your way out.
VOLCANOS
Take a self-guided tour by car through the Hawaii Volcano’s National Park.
Here you will see Mauna Loa, the world’s largest active volcano and mountain on earth accounting for more that half of the island’s land mass (most lying underneath the ocean). The mountain is constantly growing with its continuous stream of lava flow adding to its mass.
You will also see the shield volcano, Kilauea. Remember Pele? This is the volcano which has lava streaming steadily into the ocean. It is one of the most active volcanos in the world.
Driving around this park you will see volcanic craters and rainforests and have the ability to hike over miles and miles of lava rock.
WATERFALLS
If you are in Hilo here are some falls you won’t want to miss…
The Wailuku River spanning 18 miles long is the second longest river in Hawaii and is so powerful it can at times create flash flooding. It is also home to beautiful waterfalls.
Rainbow Falls is an 80 foot waterfall that creates a rainbow on sunny days and a constant mist on rainy days. It is over 100 years old and pours from the Wailuku river in front of natural lava caves.
Boiling Pots is 1.5 miles above rainbow falls. Pot-shaped holes made of lava rock that fill the Wailuku river. During storms the river rises and water appears to be “boiling” in these lava pots.
Pe’epe’e Falls is to the left and upstream boiling pots.
The Kolekole Stream produces some very impressive waterfalls as well. The most impressive is Akaka Falls. At 442 feet tall it is twice as high as Niagra Falls. Kahuna and Uluhi Falls are just downstream of Akaka.
ACOMMODATIONS
There is a wonderful VRBO in Hilo called The Hawaiian Paradise Ocean Retreat.
The property, up on a lava rock bluff, is full of meticulously manicured zen gardens, orchards, and lily ponds.
It also has a sweet little outdoor kitchen perfect for cooking all meals on site and an infinity pool with hot tub that overlooks the ocean.
Inside, you will find local art, wood furniture, and high end fixtures. The owner of the property, Dan, has not forgotten any details large or small. He made my day when he brought me over a coconut and a drill one afternoon. Although far from town, this is a wonderful place to stay if you are looking for seclusion.
For luxury vacation rentals on the Kona side check out the properties managed by Elite Pacific Properties.
See you soon Hawaiʻi Island…