Farmers, chefs, and food geeks flocked to this year’s Variety Showcase on Oʻahu. The annual event, which usually takes place in Portland, came to Hawaiʻi for the first time this year on March 13, 2018.
The event gives attendees the opportunity to taste new vegetable, legume, and grain varieties that are still being tested. It also gives chefs the opportunity to cook with these ingredients and collaborate with plant breeders––which in turn gives the plant breeders an inside look at consumer preferences.
These plant breeders develop seeds that thrive under organic farming conditions, produce excellent flavor, and can handle growing conditions specific to Hawaiʻi.
Once the new varieties of crops are bred they are sent to the farmers to test alongside other varieties that they are already growing.
I remarked when I first got to the event how I have noticed that the variety of ingredients being offered at the farmers markets has increased dramatically over the past few years. Kathy from Mohala Farms agreed saying that she believed “the new generation of farmers in Hawaiʻi are the ones who are responsible for bringing all of these exciting new crops to the island.”
Jay Bost from GoFarm Hawaii and Lane Selman of the Culinary Breeding Network – an organization whose mission “is to build community among plant breeders, farmers and consumers to improve culinary and agricultural quality” – hosted the event at Kapiolani Community College. KCC is well known for it’s outstanding culinary program and weekly farmers market, sponsored by the Hawaiʻi Farm Bureau.
At the event, each ingredient was represented by either the farm, co-op, or representative of the University of Hawaiʻi that grew the ingredient alongside a chef showcasing several varieties of each ingredient to try on their own, as well as in a prepared dish.
All of the dishes prepared were innovative and expertly crafted.
Thanks to the efforts of GoFarm, The Organic Seed Alliance, and farms such as Counter Culture Hawaiʻi got to experience something truly unique, special, and delicious. I would not be surprised if this event shows up again next year, three times as big. It was a huge success.
Here are some of the highlights (although truly, each table was just as good as the next):
One of the most promising and exciting crops being bred for tropical and organic growing conditions is the mild habanero pepper, since peppers are notorious for being hard to grow in Hawaii.
Bryan and Natalie, the owners of De La Mesa Farm, highlighted the habaneros in two dishes: A pureed habanero salsa made with guijillo and arbol chiles (this would make a killer taco sauce) served with tortilla chips that were made with hand-ground Waimanalo yellow corn and a ceviche made of fresh marlin, Kauaʻi shrimp, pickled habaneros, jicama, and pineapple.
Chef Ed Kenny from Town Restaurant Group offered a side-by-side comparison between two different polentas. One made with Guisto’s – a respectable northern California brand – and the other made with Nalo orange corn, bred in Waimanalo. The polenta made with Nalo orange corn was noticeably sweeter, had more character, and a rounder flavor.
Chef Keake Lee from Pig & The Lady created a dish of pickled purple winged beans and cold “Poamoho dark long” eggplant marinated in a black vinegar dashi broth, garnished with fresh basil. Everything Pig & The Lady does in my option is bold, creative, and crazy delicious. This dish was no exception.
The crew from Counter Culture had several tables presenting a mind boggling selection of legumes, jicama, and, bananas.
Chef David Gunawam from the Farmer’s Apprentice came all the way from Canada to participate in the event. He prepared Hirayama kai choy paired with a slice of raw skipjack seasoned with a vinaigrette he made by simmering skipjack bones with seaweed and soy sauce.
In addition, he presented two types of beans grown by Counter Culture: black beans marinated with culantro and charred scallion, and chickpeas flavored with Hawaiian shallot and herbs from Green Rows Farm.
Chef Scott Nelson of Vida Farms also cooked for Counter Culture. He prepared a crepe made “sourdough style” with fermented jicama and stuffed it with raw slices of sweet jicama and hibiscus jam. So good!
Lauren Tamamoto, instructor at KCC blew everyone’s mind with her cauliflower chocolate mousse made of cauliflower, cocoa powder, coconut milk, sugar, and vanilla extract. It was velvety smooth and tasted like the chocolate pudding of your childhood.
Chef-owner Jennifer Hee from Juicy Brew grated cassava, soaked it in golden milk, turned them into hash browns and wrapped each piece in a piper sarmentosom leaf to showcase yellow cassava.
Chef Stacey Givens from the Side Yard Farm & Kitchen came out to represent Portland with her spiced carrot cookies stuffed with Side Yard Farms goat cheese, fig leaf dust and crispy fried carrot tops. Again, mind blown.
Chef Edward Domingo from Roy’s Beach House made a dish I could eat all day long. Moringa fried rice with lechon lomi lomi. Crack an egg on top and you’ve got the perfect breakfast, lunch or dinner in my opinion.
An award winning variety of cacao, called Easton was presented by Skip Bittenbender of University of Hawaiʻi. He served a decadent 70% chocolate bar made by Manoa Chocolate.
Chef-owner of Fete Robynne Maii showcased broccoli using my favorite preparation, roasted with chile flake, garlic, and lemon. I love the crispness and the nuttiness of this dish. Robynne made it even more complex by adding capers, golden raisins, and crispy parmesan on top. She also presented Tromboncino squash pickled and served with local mint, roasted kukui nut and feta cheese.
Nina Pullella, owner of Nina Cucina Health (who’s food I miss dearly at the farmers market), took us on a journey of turmeric. Several varieties were pickled and put out for sampling and to wash it all down she made a lovely soup made with turmeric and coconut milk.
Hannah Vernon, owner of Home Cooked With Love, presented Manoa and Leopard lettuces with a vegan creamy Italian dressing made with local herbs, Dijon mustard and olive oil for dipping.
On my way out the door I luckily caught Gabe Sachter-Smith, banana expert and farmer for Counter Culture, showing off his several varieties of tropical bananas. Chef Janna Rose, from the Mossback Restaurant in Washington was scooping up banana ice-cream and vegan banana-chocolate chip cookie right along side him.
I had just talked to Gabe the Saturday before the event at the farmers market. He was the one who got me the most excited about the event in the first place. So it was fitting that, I ended the evening on a sweet note, wrapping the night up with him.
I’ve never seen so many happy faces in one room. The passion for high quality ingredients was swirling that night. Everyone involved in the event appeared to be there for the same reason – to continue to push for a healthier, tastier and more sustainable food system in Hawaiʻi. One with a lot of variety.
Editor’s note: This post was originally published on March 18, 2018 and has since been updated for accuracy.